What is Fusing Process in textiles ?

Fusing service is one kinds of alternative method of fabric joining which is widely used to attach the interlining. At present, apparel manufacturing cannot be imagined without fusing process. In fusing process cut components or separate parts of a lay (blocks of components) are fused with interlinings that are coated with thermoplastic resin. Fusing service certain components creates strength and stability and improves the shape and crease resistance of a garment. Fusing of the components is usually performed in a cutting room as this process must be performed after material cutting and before the final operations in a cutting process (quality control, sorting and bundling of cut components).
Each apparel manufacturer persistently attempts to manufacture garments with instant sales appeal. Nevertheless, one of the vital materials, fusible interlining, which is utilised for nearly almost every component of outerwear, has no sales appeal because it is imperceptible to the consumer. The method of fusing interlining to the garments started in Europe in about 1950 and in Japan in about 1960. Today, about 80% of all garments necessitate the use of interlining.
Fusible interlining is the process where the wrong side of the fashion garment panel is fused with a thermoplastic resin and can be bonded with another strip of fabric by the proper application of pressure and heat at a specific temperature and time. The fusible interlinings improve the appearance of finished garments through:
Stabilisation and control of crucial regions of the garment. Strengthening of particular design features. Without much change in the draping quality of the top cloth. Maintaining the crisp and fresh look of the base fabric.
Fusing Presses and Their Characteristics: The fusing process is performed by special fusing presses. They can be divided into two groups according to the way they perform the work process: discontinuous work process (flat) fusing presses and continuous work process fusing presses.
Discontinuous work process fusing presses realise sequential, separated from each other fusing process. They are less productive and are suitable for small and medium production units. Continuous work process fusing presses enable an ongoing process by moving the components on a conveyor belt. They offer a higher level of productivity and are more energy efficient. Because of these advantages, continuous fusing presses are designed for different power production units and used more often.
Discontinuous work process fusing press: The discontinuous fusing press is generally flat bed, which has a heating zone with two work surfaces. The other arts are handle, head and buck. Depending upon the construction, there are two ways in which the work surfaces may move to open the press such as: an upper surface which folds sideways (fusing plate press)

 and an upper or lower surface, which is moved whilst maintaining its parallel position. The discontinuous fusing press is flexible for a range of materials, needs low maintenance, which are designed for low to medium sized production requirements.
Continuous work process fusing press: The operation of this type of press (see Figure) depends on a continuously moving conveyor belt, which moves the face fabric and its interlining components in and out of the heating chamber. The heating chamber of an advanced continuous fusing press consists of several (up to 7, 9 or 12) individually controlled separate heating zones for the even distribution of heat. The temperatures for the upper heating zones (which heat the interlining) and the lower heating zones (which heat the face fabric) can be adjusted separately and precisely using a special heat control system. The long heating chamber with its several heating zones extends the heating time and ensures a gradual temperature increase so that the cut components can be fused perfectly even under lower temperatures, avoiding fabric shrinkage and fading. The heating capacity and the geometry of the heating chamber determine the material to be fused. Lighter fabrics require lower heating capacity and shorter heating chambers with fewer heating zones. The main heat should come from the face fabric side, in order to have the melting resins flow towards the face fabric. For heavier fabrics higher heating capacity and a longer heating chamber with several heating zones are needed. Heating from both top and bottom sides, with separate thermo control, ensures the correct temperature balance. continuous fusing presses Figure: The schema of a continuous fusing presses: 1, loading and feed (lower) conveyer belt; 2, upper conveyer belt; 3, upper heating zone; 4, lower heating zone; 5 and 6, pressure rolls; 7, exit conveyer. Purpose of Interlining:
To make sewing easier and to increase throughput: Since the speed of sewing machines is very high, the material must be in perfect structure and shape before sewing. Therefore, the operator efficiency could improve. Suppose if interlining is fused onto the material. It keeps its shape, therefore saving time and labour.
Maintaining shape and improving appeal of the garment: The interlining fabric improves the garment appearance while preserving the form of the garment.
Making a functional, easy to wear product: By the use of a permanent press method, the sewing of garments becomes easy and a good quality product is made, which is easy to care and easy to wear. The main objective of pressing is to enhance the look and durability of the garment shape.
The cost for this service varies from fabric to fabric and the maximum width of the fabric should be “66”inches.

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